How to replace tile grout

Difficulty: Mediumhalf a day to 1 day (depending on area) + 24–48 hours of drying4 tools💬 0

✓ Checked against manufacturer instructions and current safety standards · updated 8.7.2026.

What you'll need

Tools

  • Grout scraper (manual or oscillating multi-tool)For removing old grout without damaging the tiles.
  • Rubber grout floatFor applying new mix into the joints.
  • Sponge and bucket of waterFor cleaning and shaping the grout during work.
  • Safety glasses and dust maskFor protection during removal of old grout.

Materials

  • Grout mix (cement or epoxy based)according to tile surface
  • Grout sealeroptional, after drying
  • Masking tape for tub/sink edgesas needed

Safety gear

  • Safety glassesHard pieces of cement grout fly when scraping old grout.
  • Dust maskScraping grout, especially with a multi-tool, raises fine cement dust.
  • GlovesFresh cement grout mix is alkaline, drying and irritating the skin.
Estimated cost20–40 KM
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Before you start

Darkened and moldy grout can make even good tiles look neglected — replacing the grout restores a fresh look to the bathroom without a costly renovation. The most demanding part is scraping out the old grout, which takes half a day for an average bathroom; the grouting itself goes quickly. Count on a weekend for the entire job, including drying before the first shower.

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Skills you'll need

No special prior knowledge is required, just patience when scraping — the key is not to damage the edges of the tiles.

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1 Remove the old grout

With a hand scraper or oscillating multi-tool, carefully scrape out and remove the old grout from all joints, working slowly so you do not damage the edges of the tiles.

2 Vacuum and wash the joints

Vacuum up dust and fragments of old grout, then wipe the joints with a damp sponge and let them dry.

3 Prepare the new grout mix

If it is powder, mix it with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions to a thick, creamy consistency without lumps.

? Tip: For bathrooms and shower cubicles, choose grout with an anti-mold additive, and for high-traffic floors or external surfaces consider epoxy grout which is more durable, although harder to apply.

4 Apply the grout with a rubber float

Apply the grout diagonally across the tile joints, at an angle of about 45° to the grout lines, and press it firmly to fill the entire depth of the joint.

5 Remove excess grout

While the grout is still fresh, use the float at an angle to scrape excess grout from the tile surface using diagonal strokes.

6 Shape and clean with a damp sponge

Wipe the tiles with a slightly damp, well-wrung sponge to smooth the grout lines and remove residues, changing the water when it gets dirty.

7 Polish the tiles

When the grout is slightly set (usually after 20–30 minutes), polish the tiles with a dry soft cloth to remove the remaining dust film.

8 Allow to dry

Let the grout cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually 24–48 hours, before exposing it to water; after drying, optionally apply a grout sealer to protect against moisture and dirt.

Final check

  • The grout lines are evenly filled to the full depth and width, without holes, cracks or depressions
  • The tiles are polished to a shine, with no greyish cement haze on the surface
  • The grout is completely dry and cured before first wetting — wait at least 24-48 hours in the shower cubicle

Common problems

The new grout cracks or crumbles after a few days.
The mix was prepared too thick or the old grout was removed too shallowly, so the new layer lacks depth. Scrape the problematic area to a depth of at least 2-3 mm, mix the grout precisely according to the instructions, and grout again.
A greyish cement haze remains on the tiles and won't come off.
Excess grout mix remained on the tiles too long. Clean it with a damp, well-wrung sponge as soon as the grout starts setting, and remove any remaining haze with a cement haze remover — never use strong acids blindly.