How to install a new sink or washbasin

Difficulty: Hard3–5 h6 tools💬 0

✓ Checked against manufacturer instructions and current safety standards · updated 8.7.2026.

What you'll need

Tools

  • Adjustable wrench and pipe pliersFor disconnecting old and tightening new connections.
  • Drill with bits for dowelsFor drilling new holes for brackets, if necessary.
  • Spirit levelFor checking the horizontal position of the new element.
  • Tape measureFor measuring height and spacing during installation.
  • Caulking gunFor sealing the edge of the sink/washbasin.
  • ScrewdriverFor mounting the faucet and fastening elements.

Materials

  • New sink or washbasin1 piece
  • Faucet, if being replaced1 piece
  • Flexible water supply hoses2 pieces
  • Siphon (if the old one does not fit the new opening)1 piece
  • Sanitary silicone1 tube
  • Dowels and screws for brackets1 set
  • Teflon tape1 roll

Safety gear

  • Safety glassesWhen drilling the wall or countertop, pieces of tile, dust, and debris fly around – safety glasses are mandatory while drilling.
  • Work glovesEdges of stainless steel sinks and ceramics can be sharp, and the old element is heavy and slippery during disassembly.
Estimated cost100–350 KM (depending on the sink/washbasin and faucet)
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Before you start

Installing a new sink or washbasin is the largest task in this section, but completely doable over a single weekend if you work in order: disassembly of the old one, preparing the spot, mounting the faucet before positioning (while the connections are easily accessible), then connecting the hoses and siphon. It requires a bit of drilling, some silicone, and precision with a level. First of all, shut off the angle valves and release the pressure at the faucet – half the work is done with open connections.

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Skills you'll need

You need experience with basic plumbing joints (flexible hoses, siphon) and handling a drill for dowels; before disassembly, be sure to close the angle valves or the main water supply.

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⚠ Safety note: This guide involves working with plumbing, load-bearing structure. If you're not completely sure about every step, stop and call a licensed professional. Before you start, always switch off the power at the breaker or close the main water/gas valve.

1 Close the shut-off valves and release pressure

Close the hot and cold water valves and open the faucet to release the pressure, as you will be disconnecting both the inlet and outlet connections of the old element.

Close the shut-off valves and release pressure

2 Place a bucket and disconnect the fittings

Disconnect the flexible hoses from the angle valves and unscrew the siphon from the drain pipe, then wait for any remaining water to drain.

Place a bucket and disconnect the fittings

3 Disassemble the old sink or washbasin

Unscrew the mounting screws or nuts under the countertop (for undermount sinks) or from the wall brackets (for washbasins), then carefully remove the old piece with the help of another person, as it is usually heavy and awkward to handle.

⚠️ Warning: Old sinks and washbasins, especially ceramic ones, are heavy and fragile – always work in pairs, as a drop or impact can crack a tile, the countertop, or cause personal injury.

4 Prepare the space for the new element

Clean the old silicone seal from the countertop or wall, verify that the new sink/washbasin fits the existing opening or brackets, and drill new holes for brackets if necessary using a level to keep them completely horizontal.

Prepare the space for the new element

5 Mount the faucet before installation

It is much easier to secure the faucet to the sink or washbasin while the element is turned upside down on a workbench than after it has already been installed.

6 Position the new element and seal the edge

Position it, align it with a level, secure it to the brackets or countertop, and apply a thin layer of sanitary silicone around the entire edge where it rests on the surface, to prevent water from penetrating underneath.

Position the new element and seal the edge

? Tip: Before the silicone fully cures, draw a smooth line along the joint with a clean finger dipped in a little dish soap – it will look as neat as if the work were done by a professional.

7 Connect the hoses and siphon

Connect the flexible hoses to the shut-off valves and the faucet, mount the siphon to the drain, and hand-tighten all connections plus a gentle additional turn with a wrench.

Connect the hoses and siphon

8 Open the water and check for leaks

Slowly open the water supply, run water through the faucet, and check all inlet and outlet joints for leaks, then let the silicone dry for at least 24 hours before normal use.

Open the water and check for leaks

When to call a professional: If the job involves changes to the electrical panel, the main gas line, or load-bearing walls/beams — or if you're not sure how it will turn out — this is not a DIY task. Hire a licensed professional.

Final check

  • The element is level and firmly set, and the silicone seal against the wall/countertop is continuous – let the silicone cure for 24 hours before splashing with water
  • Open the valves and run hot and cold water for a few minutes – joints of the hoses on the faucet, valves, and the entire siphon are dry on a paper towel
  • Fill the basin up to the overflow and then drain it rapidly – the drain swallows without delay, and the overflow and siphon do not leak

Common problems

The siphon of the new element does not match the height of the drain in the wall.
A new washbasin/sink often has the drain at a different height than the old one. Use a siphon with a telescopic or flexible (accordion) drain part and an eccentric coupling – as a last resort, extend the drain with a piece of HT pipe with an elbow.
Water appears along the edge of the sink/washbasin after the first use.
The silicone seal has a gap or the element was moved before the silicone cured. Dry the edge, cut out the old seal with a utility knife, degrease with alcohol, and apply a new continuous line of sanitary silicone, then do not use the element for 24 hours.